In an age of electronic helms, joysticks, bow thrusters and automatic docking systems, it’s important to remember that not all boats have these modern systems. In fact, many don’t. Go to any boat show or walk the dock in most local marinas and you’ll see a lot of modest boats powered by single outboards. Some of these vessels are new, and yet they’re not packaged with that equipment because it can drive up the purchase price. As for used boats, many don’t have these systems because some of the technology wasn’t available until a few short years ago.
Almost everywhere I go I see many recreational boats powered by one outboard, simply because that’s a popular entry-level package. For many seasoned boaters, a big single is preferred because of the simplicity and lower maintenance costs. This boat type is also popular with people who are new to the sport. For that reason, we think it makes sense to revisit the basics of docking with one motor. A primer could be helpful for the new generation of boaters and serve as a good refresher course for more experienced skippers.
To make docking a smooth and safe operation start by assessing the conditions and preparing the boat well before you approach the dock. If you’re docking in a waterway influenced by tides running parallel to the dock, always approach and tie up bow into the current. My 27-foot center console is powered by a 300-horsepower outboard. It’s kept in a slip on a tidal river that at various moon stages can generate strong currents. The fuel dock runs parallel to the shoreline and river flow, so on an incoming tide my approach will be port side to the dock. On an outgoing tide the approach will be starboard side to the dock.
Let’s assume the tide is outgoing and running at a good pace. Before I get near the dock—unless I am pulling into my own slip, which already has lines and bumpers installed—I will attach the bow and stern lines to the starboard cleats and hang a couple of fenders off that side of the boat. Then I use the shift and throttle to gauge how much power is necessary to stem the tide and hold the boat in position against the current. This is done by shifting the engine in and out of gear to control the forward momentum. Docking is always done at the slowest speed possible and controlled by shifting between forward and neutral to bump the boat forward.
Wind direction is key. Wind blowing in the same or opposite direction as the current will affect the momentum of the boat and can be offset by bumping the engine in and out of gear more or less frequently. Wind blowing toward or away from the dock will influence the angle of approach to the dock.
When docking with wind or current toward the dock approach slowly at a shallow angle, about 20 degrees. As you get close turn parallel to the dock and let the wind or current push the boat to the dock. If the current is parallel to the wind, use the shift and throttle to stem the current while the wind pushes the boat into the dock. Shift into gear briefly if you need to adjust position and then secure the bow and stern lines.
If the wind or current is away from the dock, approach slowly at a sharper angle, 40 degrees or more, and reverse to stop when the bow is almost touching the dock. Secure the bow line then use forward gear at idle speed, briefly turning the steering wheel hard away from the dock to push the stern toward it. Then secure the stern line.
Docking with no wind or current is a simple procedure. Approach the dock slowly at a shallow angle, and when the boat is close enough, have a passenger step on shore and secure the bow line.Then swing the stern in with a line or boat hook and secure it.
Just as docking procedures vary with wind and current conditions, so does the process you’ll employ when casting off. When wind and current are negligible, simply remove your bow and stern lines, make sure your path is clear of other boats and move away from the dock at a shallow angle. You can make it even easier by manually pushing off the dock from the midships area of the boat before shifting into gear.
If the wind or current are strong toward the dock, you can use your bow line to aid departure. First cast off the stern line, then move and secure the bow line to the spring line position. Make sure a fender is in place near the bow. Put the boat into forward gear briefly while turning the steering wheel hard toward the dock, increasing speed slowly until the stern is clear of the dock. Then cast off the remaining line, shift into reverse and back away until you have room to shift into forward gear and turn away from the dock.
When the wind or current is strong away from the dock, use it to your advantage by casting off the bow and stern lines and letting the wind push the boat clear. Once it’s far enough away, shift to forward gear and depart the area.
Getting into a slip seems to cause the most angst for drivers of single-engine boats. It can be a little nerve-wracking to navigate down a narrow fairway in a marina with boats docked on both sides, before turning the boat to back into a slip. The approach to my slip is affected by the river’s tidal currents, which push the boat into or away from the slip. Wind can further complicate things if it’s blowing hard enough. I have bumpers attached to the finger pier where the boat rests so I don’t have to hang fenders from the boat.
When entering the fairway, I favor the up current side as I make my way slowly toward the slip, which is on the starboard side of the boat. I move no faster than idle speed and as I get closer to the slip, I further reduce speed by using neutral, positioning the boat perpendicular to the mouth of the slip. I then turn the wheel to port letting the momentum begin the turn. If the wind is blowing from the stern, I start my turn to port a little sooner; if it’s blowing from the bow I turn a little later, in both cases using the wind to help bring the boat in line with the slip.
Using the wheel in conjunction with the throttle and shift I continue moving the boat, then reverse to straighten it in relation to the slip. It’s akin to making a three-point turn, using the wheel, forward, reverse and neutral to complete the task. Once in position I shift into reverse and back in slowly, staying close to the finger pier on the port side where my bumpers and dock lines are located. I attach the spring line first to halt any momentum and to prevent the stern from drifting back and hitting the main dock or bulkhead, then attach the stern lines. The bow line comes last.
One last tip: Never approach at a speed faster than you are willing to hit the dock. Go slow and easy, and remember that neutral is your friend. Bouncing the engine in and out of gear makes it easier to control the momentum of the boat. The more experience you gain, the easier docking will be.
February 2025
